The autumn is perhaps my favorite time of year. The weather has been warm and clear, the water also, and the swells have been coming with some regularity, and I have been able to take advantage. After a good surf session, all is right in the world.
This morning, via email, I was sent a pic snapped at Stone Steps in Leucadia. The taker thought it was my friend Jim Cravens. When he saw that it was in fact me, he sent it along with a sweet little poem. Not the most graceful of surfing moments, but a moment nonetheless. I seem to be channeling a little of the Kook. I hope you don't mind me sharing...
Bruce has
cancer.
This morning, via email, I was sent a pic snapped at Stone Steps in Leucadia. The taker thought it was my friend Jim Cravens. When he saw that it was in fact me, he sent it along with a sweet little poem. Not the most graceful of surfing moments, but a moment nonetheless. I seem to be channeling a little of the Kook. I hope you don't mind me sharing...
Swami Goes Left
Bruce has
cancer.
It can kill you
sad and defeated
giving up giving
in.
But Stone Steps
beach is right down there
beside the
Pacific Ocean.
It's not going
anywhere.
Bruce is at Stone Steps
going left
backhand.
You have to
plush hard
on your back
foot to turn.
You have to be
alive
to do it, and Bruce can. -James Cravens 10/2012
to do it, and Bruce can. -James Cravens 10/2012
Glad to see you were surfing in the fall when the weather was warmer.
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