Wednesday, October 17, 2012


     The autumn is perhaps my favorite time of year.  The weather has been warm and clear, the water also, and the swells have been coming with some regularity, and I have been able to take advantage.  After a good surf session, all is right in the world. 
     This morning, via email, I was sent a pic snapped at Stone Steps in Leucadia. The taker thought it was my friend Jim Cravens.  When he saw that it was in fact me, he sent it along with a sweet little poem.  Not the most graceful of surfing moments, but a moment nonetheless.  I seem to be channeling a little of the Kook. I hope you don't mind me sharing...

                                     Swami Goes Left

Bruce has cancer.
It can kill you
sad and defeated
giving up giving in.
But Stone Steps beach is right down there
beside the Pacific Ocean.
It's not going anywhere.
Bruce is at Stone Steps
going left backhand.
You have to plush hard
on your back foot to turn.
You have to be alive
to do it, and Bruce can.                                               -James Cravens 10/2012



  1. Glad to see you were surfing in the fall when the weather was warmer.
    It's been cold lately,huh?

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